Lanzarote Trip Blog: Written by Mark Connelly

🌊Diving Into Lanzarote: A Week of Milestones, Seahorses, Shenanigans, and Submerged Sculptures

If you’re after a destination where lava-sculpted coastlines plunge into aquamarine depths teeming with life, Lanzarote doesn’t just tick the boxes, it blows them out of the water. Our week diving with the brilliant crew at Manta Diving Lanzarote, nestled in the heart of Puerto del Carmen, was a heady mix of marine marvels, milestone dives, and just the right amount of mischief. Here’s how the madness began…

🐟 Sunday 19^th October: Arrival, Appetites and Ambitions

We rolled into HG Lomo Blanco Apartments late, trading spreadsheets and classrooms for cylinders and wetsuits. The first evening was all about regrouping: introductions, buddy re-connections, and wildly optimistic talk of early nights (spoiler alert - not a chance). The hotel food did the job, but the real appetite was for the dives ahead. You could feel it, the buzz, the anticipation, the quiet hope that this week would be one for the blog!

🤿 Monday 20^th October: New centre, New Dives, and Controlled Chaos

Day one at Manta Diving and it was full throttle: divers kitting up, instructors wrangling groups, fins flapping, cylinders clinking. That classic first-day scramble at a new dive site, slightly chaotic, slightly overwhelming, but strangely comforting. We found our groove quickly, as we always do at Dive Rutland. No fuss, no drama, just our usual blend of quiet competence and mild confusion. And by the end of the day, it already felt like home.

With Nitrox cylinders strapped on and dive briefs delivered, we were off. First stop: Cathedral and Old Harbour Wall. We waded in from the beach, did the usual weight checks, and followed the reef wall down into the blue. At around 28–30 metres, the Cathedral revealed itself, a cavern shaped like something out of a volcanic fairytale, complete with a vaulted ceiling and a shadowy altar at the back. Even Ben’s industrial-strength torch couldn’t reach the far end. We saw canary scorpionfish, groupers, nudibranchs and even had a ray swim passed us.

Dive two was a short boat hop, just four minutes to Playa Chica, near Puerto del Carmen’s Old Town. This time, we got to giant stride in, descending to 30–35 metres where a graveyard of wrecks awaited. Our dive guide shared a slice of history: years ago, Spain’s king had to sign off on strict EU fishing quotas and fleet reductions to protect fish stocks. It hit small-scale fishermen hard. Some, unable to keep going, scuttled their boats, either in protest or because it was the cheapest way out. Their loss, our playground. The wrecks were eerie, beautiful, and teeming with life.

That evening, wetsuits were dripping dry, and stories were already growing taller.

🐴 Tuesday 21^st October: Seahorses, Octopus and Shenanigans

Nothing says “holiday mode” like a triple-dive day, Punta Tiñosa, Blue Hole, El Champiñon along with Vic’s ever enthusiastic ways!

Dive One took us on a short boat ride to Punta Tiñosa, one of Lanzarote’s newer dive sites and a visual treat. The volcanic formations here stretch from the surface down to around 12 metres, creating a surreal underwater landscape of jagged lava ridges and shadowy crevices. Most of us dropped down to about 20 metres, soaking in the scenery and scanning for movement.

Ben and Will, however, had other plans. They spent a good chunk of the dive trying to charm an octopus out of its rocky hideout, a gentle coaxing operation involving torchlight, patience, and a few hopeful gestures. Eventually, the octopus gave them a show, gliding off with that signature alien grace. A return to the boat after our safety stop, passing fins up to the boat Captain and climbing the ladder, mission accomplished.

Our second dive of the day took us to the legendary Blue Hole, one of Lanzarote’s most iconic shore dives. Entry for those brave enough was a dramatic six-foot drop off the quayside that felt more “leap of faith” than gentle wade-in. One by one, we took the plunge, fins flailing and bubbles rising.

And then came Tracey. Cool, composed, and utterly graceful, her entry was a masterclass in technique. If there’d been judges, she’d have scored straight tens. The rest of us? Let’s just say we got in… eventually.

Beneath the surface, the Blue Hole lived up to its reputation, a surreal blend of volcanic architecture and curious marine life. The dive began with a lava tube swim-through, a natural tunnel that threads from the sandy shallows, slicing through the reef before opening out into the deep blue abyss beyond.

We dropped to around 25–30 metres, where the real show began. Fields of sand eels rippled like underwater wheat in the current, while cuttlefish hovered with their usual alien elegance. Then, just when we thought we’d seen it all, a lone triggerfish made a surprise cameo. Classic Blue Hole: always ready to throw in a wildcard.

Dive three, El Champiñon and the Grouper that got away!

Our final dive of the day took us to El Champiñon, named after the volcanic rock formation, that sits like a giant mushroom on the seabed. Another boat entry, another descent this time to around 29 metres, where the current made its presence known almost immediately.

No drama though. The team handled it like pros, weaving through a series of short swim-throughs carved into the lava landscape. It was one of those dives where you had to stay sharp and stay close, the kind that makes you feel like part of a well-oiled machine.

Vic, ever the eagle-eyed spotter, clocked a massive Grouper lurking in the shadows. The rest of us? Blissfully unaware, probably admiring Ben’s trim or adjusting a fin strap!

Tracey captured a Hippocampus hippocampus, a short-snouted seahorse.

After a smooth DSMB deployment and a textbook safety stop, we surfaced, salty, smiling, and ready for whatever the evening had in store, which as always has a Ben!

The evening brought cocktails, paella, a lot of math! and waiter’s having a smashing time around us with Tracey and Mark in the firing line.

Wednesday 22^nd October: Lava Tube Limbo, a Grouper Reunion

We kicked off the day with a boat ride out to Los Arcos, a site named for its two dramatic arches and a sheer wall that drops to around 30 metres. Our descent took us down to 12 metres, where we started to explore a series of lava tube swim-throughs, two roomy, one very snug. Let’s just say it was less “glide through gracefully” and more “lava tube limbo” for a few of us.

Back at the quayside, we had a minor reshuffle. Mark, nursing a grumbling Achilles, made the tactical decision to swap fins for flip-flops and retreated poolside with Sam (aka Mrs C) for some enforced R&R. Fortunately, Will our resident physio-in-the-know, stepped in with some stretches and rehab tips to get him back in the water ASAP. Dive team support, both above and below the surface.

Dive Two saw us heading back to the Cathedral, with a Grouper Reunion. A shore entry and a surface swim gave us a chance to spot a ray gliding beneath us, a graceful warm-up act before the main event. Once we descended, the reef wall guided us back to the cavern’s grand entrance, familiar yet still awe-inspiring.

Along the way, we clocked a scorpionfish tucked into the rocks, and then, the star sighting, a massive grouper, easily 1M long! Cruising with quiet authority. Odds are it was the same one Vic clocked the day before (while the rest of us were clearly looking the wrong way). Whether it’s doing laps or holding court, Cathedral might just have its own resident heavyweight, and it knows how to make an entrance.

Our final dive of the day took us to Orange Coral, a site known for a cave containing, well, orange coral of course! located along the reef wall at Playa Chica. After a shore entry and a surface swim we descended into a world that didn’t disappoint.

Cuttlefish hovered like underwater UFOs, groupers loitered in the shadows (clearly the local gang), and a trumpetfish cruised past with its usual “I’m not weird, I’m unique” vibe. But the real highlight, three seahorse’s, delicate, elusive, and magical. We dropped to a max depth of 32 metres, soaking in every moment before heading back to shore.

Wetsuits were peeled off and hung up and the evening antics resumed, the stories got a little more dramatic with each retelling. Just another day for Dive Rutland.

That night’s surface interval took us to a local Italian spot, where carbs were consumed with gusto and the banter flowed as freely as the house red. Will’s spoon-handling technique became the unexpected centrepiece of dinner conversation, part critique, part performance art.

Then came the moment of high drama: a waiter, clearly struggling with his tray-balancing skills, launched a cascade of bottles and glasses right next to our table. The result? A startled silence, a floor full of glass, and Mark sporting a battle wound courtesy of a rogue shard. Nothing too serious.

🏛️ Thursday 23^rd October: Milestones, Museum Magic and The Great Boat Mix-Up.

Today was all about milestones and diving Museo Atlántico, Lanzarote’s surreal underwater sculpture garden where art meets aquatic life. The day kicked off later than usual, with our dive entry logged at a very civilised 10:17 from the quayside. A gentle drift dive along the wall took us to Black Beach, clocking a solid 50 minutes underwater and a max depth of 22 metres.

Mid-dive, we were treated to a spectacle: a large school of fish being expertly corralled by two barracuda on the hunt, nature’s version of synchronised swimming with a side of menace.

Then came the moment of comedy and celebration. Out of nowhere, Mark pulled out an umbrella underwater, triggering a wave of chuckles and confused glances. This wasn’t just a prop, it was his 200th dive milestone, and kudos to Will for planting the idea a few nights earlier. After a few photo ops (umbrella passed ceremoniously to Will), we began our ascent and surfaced at Black Beach.

But the adventure wasn’t over. The walk back to Manta Dive Centre involved lugging gear up volcanic steps, past a string of restaurants and Mark, ever the showman, kept the umbrella up. Dive kit on, brolly aloft, he strolled past diners and holidaymakers, collecting a trail of double-takes, giggles, and a few confused claps. A fitting end to a landmark dive.

Four hours, one scenic drive to Playa Blanca, and a boat ride later — we arrived at Museo Atlántico, Lanzarote’s underwater sculpture garden and ecological marvel. Created by artist Jason deCaires Taylor, this isn’t just a dive site, it’s a living reef and a bold artistic statement. The sculptures, made from pH-neutral materials, are designed to foster coral growth and marine biodiversity, blending environmental purpose with haunting beauty.

One by one, we left the boat and began our descent. A brief mask hiccup for Lydia was swiftly sorted by Ben, and then we were gliding down to this submerged museum of meaning.

Then came the moment that stole the dive: Adam, our guide from Manta, passed a laminated sheet to Ben, a surprise crafted by the team back at the centre. He rallied the divers around Tracey, and right there among the sculptures, presented her with a 5000^th dive certificate. A monumental achievement in any diver’s career, and Tracey took it in her stride, humble, beaming, and fully deserving of the applause that followed.

We continued the dive, drifting through the haunting beauty of Museo Atlántico’s submerged installations. First came The Rubicon, 35 human figures mid-stride, walking toward a wall, frozen in motion yet somehow full of urgency.

Then The Raft of Lampedusa, a sobering tribute to the refugee crisis, its figures huddled together in silent desperation.

Los Jolateros brought a touch of innocence, children in traditional tin boats, playful yet poignant. The Hybrid figures blurred the line between human and nature, their bodies entwined with coral and roots, a reminder of our fragile connection to the ocean.

Deregulated offered a satirical twist, businessmen on swings and seesaws, teetering in a surreal playground of imbalance. But the most impactful and surreal was The Human Gyroscope a vast circle of 200 figures, each representing a stage in life’s cycle. Floating among them felt like swimming through time itself.

It was art, ecology, and emotion, all wrapped in one unforgettable dive.

Once Adam rallied the troops, we wrapped up our safety stop and climbed back aboard, or so we thought. A quick headcount revealed two missing faces: Ben and Todd. Cue the collective squinting into the blue and scanning for the telltale DSMB we all knew Ben would deploy.

Five minutes of mild panic and increasingly creative theories later, we spotted them, calmly bobbing beside a different boat, looking perfectly content. Turns out they’d surfaced on another line and were patiently waiting with a neighbouring dive group, probably wondering what was taking us so long.

The ribbing that followed was relentless. Ben and Todd were welcomed back with cheers, jeers, and a fresh round of nicknames. And as for Ben, let’s just say he’ll be reminded many times which boat to return to. Dive Rutland never forgets!

The boat ride back wasn’t just a return to shore, it turned into an impromptu concert. A few of us started singing, half in tune and fully in holiday spirit. Then came another surprise for the day: Todd’s singing voice. Smooth, strong, and unexpectedly brilliant.

Cue applause, laughter, and a few cheeky requests for encores. Turns out, beneath the dive gear and dry humour, Todd’s got pipes that he uses for Karaoke back home.

The evening led us to the first of three new restaurants we’d try over the rest of the holiday, this one perched perfectly above Black Beach, the very spot we’d exited our earlier dive. As the sun dipped low, casting golden light across the water, it felt like we’d wandered into a scene straight out of a travel magazine. Cameras clicked, drinks clinked, and the mood was pure post-dive bliss.

Plates of paella arrived, rich with saffron and seafood, and the spirits flowed just enough to loosen stories and spark laughter about the milestones and of course Ben and Todds wrong boat choices. But the real show was dessert, so good that Tracey and Sam were practically licking their plates clean (with admirable restraint, of course). Dive Rutland knows how to celebrate underwater milestones and culinary ones.

🧀 Friday 24^th October: Sea Horses, Penetration, Marmalade and Taco, Cat, Goat, Cheese, Pizza… Chaos!

The first dive of the day took us back to the Old Harbour Wrecks, a site that clearly left an impression, as many of us were keen to spend more time exploring its submerged history. We dropped straight down to the deeper wrecks, hitting around 36 metres, where the shadows and structure felt even more dramatic on second viewing.

After a closer inspection of the lower wrecks, we ascended to the shallower site, larger, more intact, and begging for a bit of exploration. Will and Kurt briefly penetrated the wreck while the rest of us hovered nearby, watching like curious spectators at an underwater theatre. It was one of those dives that felt both adventurous and reverent — a chance to revisit, reflect, and spot details we’d missed the first time.

Our second dive of the day took us back to one of the Playa Chica shore dives, and it turned out to be an underwater safari of the highest order. A ray glided past like a silent kite, cuttlefish hovered with their usual alien grace, and an octopus gave us a brief show before vanishing into the rocks.

We spotted nudibranchs, seahorses, and even an angel shark, a rare and thrilling sight and as Ben called it “a cool orange and blue crab” under a big rock. It was one of those dives where every few metres brought something new.

The last dive of the day was to Orange Coral again one of Playa Chica’s dive sites. A short boat trip and dive to a depth of 37 meters. This was an unguided dive, so Tracey and Ben led the team round the reef and back to safety at the quayside.

The evening took us to Dolce Vita Restaurant, next door to last night’s eatery for more food, sangria, banter and sunset watching. Kurt deciding to buy a whole cow, Tracey and Sam trying marmalade cheese and typically Will eating soup with a fork!

As the night wore on, a few of us stayed up in the apartment bar for what turned into one of the most unexpectedly hilarious evenings of the trip. Mark and Sam, armed with a mysterious box and mischievous grins, insisted we play a game they’d brought along: Taco, Cat, Goat, Cheese, Pizza.

What followed was pure, unfiltered chaos. Chants of the game’s title echoed through the bar like a ritual gone rogue, punctuated by bursts of hysterical laughter, flailing limbs, and more than a few self-inflicted injuries. Reflexes were tested, pride was bruised, and at one point, someone (Lydia) may have hit themselves in the head.

It was the kind of night that bonds a group, ridiculous, rowdy, and absolutely unforgettable.

Footnote: Ben committing fully to his new persona of "the guy who can't find the way home" admitted to trying to let himself into apartment 502 before realising he was in 602...you couldn’t make it up!

🧀 Saturday 25^th October: Crab Cameos, Nearly Eaten Alive and Dobble!

With the trip winding down, the day offered options: shopping for souvenirs, poolside tanning, or squeezing in a few final dives. Naturally, some of us chose the latter and the first splash was into Agujero Azul, better known as the Blue Hole.

After a giant stride off the quayside and a swim out to the buoy, we waited briefly for a couple of groups to surface and then had the site all to ourselves. A generous 49-minute bottom time took us to 28 metres, giving us a relaxed, chilled dive with plenty to see.

Schools of barracuda shimmered past like silver arrows, a few rays cruised the sand like underwater gliders, and one cheeky crab popped in and out of a rock like it was playing peekaboo. It was the kind of dive that reminded us why we love diving.

The final dive of the trip took Tracey and Ben to Punta Tiñosa, joined by a few new faces we hadn’t dived with before. Hanging at the back of Adam’s group, cameras in hand, they were set for a relaxed photo-focused dive until things got unexpectedly lively.

Out of nowhere, a triggerfish swam right up to Ben’s face, close enough to trigger a full freak-out. It wasn’t aggressive, just intensely curious, but when you’re worried about your ears becoming fish snacks, proximity matters. Ben made a tactical retreat to Tracey, hoping her torch might be more appealing than his startled expression.

It worked. The triggerfish became mesmerised by the bright beam, circling Tracey instead. After a few gentle nudges with the torch, it finally lost interest and swam off just in time for a big stingray to glide in and steal the spotlight, hanging around like a graceful farewell guest.

And then… yep, back came the triggerfish. Persistent, peculiar, and clearly not ready to say goodbye. Eventually, the group ascended up the line and out. Dive over, hearts full, legs tired, and stories locked in. A 55-minute dive worthy of sharing at dinner.

Having showered and packed ready for the trip home we all went to the third and last restaurant of the trip for more food, banter and finally an Instagram worthy sunset. After last nights shenanigans of Taco, Lydia brought her Harry Potter Dobble game down to the bar. More hilarity ensued but mostly confusion over Harry Potter characters…man with beard, stick thing and shieldy thing or hat were all shouted, thrusting cards into the centre of the table.

🧀 Sunday 26^th October: Early Departures, Lazy Breakfast, Pressurised Drinks!

The final morning began early for Vic, Todd, and Kurt, who slipped away to the airport before our mandated 8am breakfast ritual. The rest of us trickled into the dining room around 9am, ready for the 10:45 checkout.

What followed was a surprisingly swift exit from the apartment reception, no last-minute dramas, no forgotten fins. Just a cheerful driver and a Halloween-decorated bus that turned up ahead of schedule, complete with cobwebs and a vibe that felt more party bus than a normal airport transfer. It was a fitting send-off: light-hearted, a little surreal, and unmistakably Dive Rutland.

The flight home was uneventful for most; however, we did take of a little later than expected. Tracey on the other hand had a seat changed and a canister explosion. That’s what happens when you decant a fizzy drink into a drink canister and put it under pressure!

🌅 Final Thoughts

• Todd earned his Deep Spec and mastered DSMB deployment.
• Vic nailed the underwater mirror selfie, complete with “wahhaa” moments!
• Will proudly penetrated the ship (in the diving sense!), while Vik, not certified, had “recent experience” apparently!
• Ben, ever enthusiastic, turned up at the wrong boat but was rewarded with a triggerfish encounter.
• Tracey spotted an elusive angel shark, blink and you’d miss it and completed her 5000^th dive.
• Lydia saw her first wild seahorse, clung to a ledge, and serenaded us with Ronan Keating, inspired by Todd’s tones.
• Richard followed an octopus with the grace of a marine ballet dancer.
• Kurt met a grouper at the Cathedral, bigger than 1 M, a fish tale we’ll never forget.
• Guides Adam, Sam, and Ben kept us safe, smiling, and occasionally herded us, no small feat with this crew.
• Don’t talk about Traitors!
• And I celebrated dive 200 with an underwater umbrella moment. Because why not?

Here’s to Manta Diving Lanzarote, to milestones met, fish seen, and friendships forged. Until the next descent…